Traditionally, tres leches is eaten as a sandwich cake. What is essential is that the cocoa solids content is around 70 per cent. Look, if I want a cake that wet and creamy I won't bother baking it, I'll just lick the raw mixture straight from the bowl. Mix well and allow to rest for 10 minutes. The scent fills the house and wakes up the senses before you are even properly awake. Fold firmly but gently into the egg white and sugar. Mix well but only until the ingredients are combined. Preheat oven to 350F. Short of the delicate moment when you mix it all together, it is the cooking time that is truly make or break. Test with a skewer for doneness. Anything lower and your cake will lack clout; higher and its dryness will leave you gasping for water. You could measure my life in health-food shops. The modern chocolate cowpat will probably go by the name of Oblivion, Mud Cake or, in a stroke of supreme naffness, Death by Chocolate. I have made this banana bread at least twice a week for three and half years for the guests in our guesthouse. Butter 12-16 friand moulds or cupcake tins. Gooseberry and elderflower drink A non-alcoholic summer drink of gooseberries and elderflower cordial. In this version, I substituted hazelnuts for some of the almonds because I had a few left over that I wanted to use up. Part recipe journal, part kitchen chronical, each story has, at its heart, a recipe I have cooked during the week that I feel I would … Add the flour, baking powder and ground almonds. Remove from the heat and add the vodka and vanilla extract. Preheat the oven to 180C/gas mark 4. This is chocolate with a clean long-lasting edge to it and a slow finish in the mouth. And where else can you get a joss stick when you need one? Slice and serve hot or cold. Jeremy Lee is head chef of Quo Vadis, London W1. Prick with a toothpick to make sure that the batter is cooked (the toothpick should come out clean) and remove from the oven. 1 level teaspoon of baking powder. It acts as a pick-me-up, a little zip of energy to get you through till lunch or dinner. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes. The cakes should be moist but not sticky. It is also where I first came across organic vegetables, long before the supermarkets saw them as a money-spinner or the organic box schemes would turn up at your door. Work slowly and firmly but lightly. Tips: It is essential not to let the chocolate get too hot as it melts. Scoop the batter into the lined tin, then lay the lemon slices on top, overlapping them down the centre of the cake. More of a mousse than a proper cake, it is now a matter of honour that your cake can barely hold its shape, a distinct case of the wetter the better. 200g fine dark chocolate (70 per cent) a small, hot espresso200g butter80g plain flour1 tsp baking powder 2 level tbsps of very good quality cocoa powder 5 eggs200g golden unrefined caster sugar 125g shelled almonds. The snobbery that has banished flour from most modern cake recipes is robbing us of the sacred thing that is proper chocolate cake. As soon as it has started to melt, pour the hot espresso over the chocolate. No matter what may be the chocolate of the moment, I still think you cannot get a better flavour than with Valrhona, and no, I'm not on their payroll. Health-food shops rarely used to be without a carrot cake on the salad counter, usually next to the blackcurrant cheesecake and the deep wholemeal quiche. Cut the butter into chunks and drop it into the chocolate and coffee. Don't over mix or knock the air out, and stop as soon as the last bit of flour is mixed in. Use half of the cream to sandwich the soaked cakes together and top with the remaining cream and the strawberries. To make the cake, sift the flour and baking powder twice. Nigel Slater. Stir until smooth and melted, Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly. Grind the nuts in a coffee grinder or mini food processor (in different batches: almonds and pistachios separately). To make the frosting, put the mascarpone, Philadelphia cheese and icing sugar into an electric mixer and beat till smooth and creamy. Separate the eggs, dropping the egg whites into a large bowl. The recipe passes all three crucial tests: depth of flavour, supreme lightness and fragility and, not least, a distinct stick-to-the-fork moistness. Oswaldo Oliva is head chef at Lorea, in Mexico City, Click here to order a copy from Guardian Bookshop for 24.60, Click here to order a copy from Guardian Bookshop for £16.40. Gradually add the beaten eggs and almond essence, then gently fold in the flour and ground almonds. Toss the gooseberries with the remaining 75g caster sugar and spread them over the top of the cake. Anyone can make the mud variety, just as anyone can knock up a chocky sponge. Leave to cool a little before turning out and slicing. A version I have tinkered with for so long that every inch of my house now smells like the inside of a fabulously expensive Easter egg. Beat the butter and the sugar together until pale and fluffed. Pre-heat the oven to 180C. Watermelon Smoothie A smoothie of watermelon and raspberries for a hot summer's day. Grate the zest from the lemon and squeeze its juice. Fold firmly but gently into the egg white and sugar. I've taken this from Appetite by Nigel Slater and it's called A simple cake to serve with summer fruit. Whiz the flour and butter in a food processor until the mixture resembles fine fresh breadcrumbs. Spoon the apricots and some syrup into a pretty bowl. a cook who writes. Whizz the almonds in a food processor until they are finely chopped; add them together with the ground almonds to the cake mix. As much as I bow down to today's cake with its claggy, uncooked texture, a cake so gungey and wet you could wring it out with your fist, I rather miss what you might call 'proper' cake. Place the cake on a handsome plate. Crack the eggs into a jug and mix them well with a fork. Line a 2kg loaf tin with a baking parchment liner, pour in the batter and bake on the top shelf for 45-55 minutes. Carefully lay the apricots in the liquid and return to a boil. This was first published in the Observer many years ago, and rarely does a week go by without an email asking for a copy to replace one that has fallen apart or stuck to the bottom of a pan. I found this fantastic Nigel Slater cake on the Guardian website, which I adapted a little as I didn't have all the ingredients in my cupboard. 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